Experiencing surfing for the first time, managing to catch a wave and coasting along with it…is nothing short of awe-inspiring. Being in the grasp of nature and following its speed gave me such an amazing feeling inside. It was a rush. Nothing less than a rush.
I understand why people surf. Being one with nature is what it feels like. Amazing.
The surfing trip was hosted by the hostel, we took the free boards, loaded them into the vanand headed off. At the beach, the first thought that struck me was: Beautiful beach and ocean.
Second tought: Holy shit, those are some big waves!
Turns out they werent big at all, but they were still magnificent. And I managed to ride them.
The smile on my face picturing the feeling will last me a long time.
Also, playing pool is fun.